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Tables of Contents for Cloth and Human Experience
Chapter/Section Title
Page #
Page Count
Preface
xi
 
Contributors
xiii
 
Introduction
1
32
Jane Schneider
Annette B. Weiner
Cloth in Small-Scale Societies
4
6
Capitalism and the Meanings of Cloth
10
6
Cloth in Large-Scale Societies
16
17
Cloth and Gender
20
5
Conclusion
25
8
PART I Cloth in Small-Scale Societies
Why Cloth? Wealth, Gender, and Power in Oceania
33
40
Annette B. Weiner
Women and Their Brothers: The Trobriand Solution
37
4
Women and Their Brothers: The Samoan Solution
41
4
Cloth and Women's Production
45
4
Cloth and Men's Production
49
3
Cloth and Its Inalienable Properties
52
3
Cloth Wealth, Chiefs, and Gender
55
6
Why Cloth?
61
12
Cloth and the Creation of Ancestors in Madagascar
73
44
Gillian Feeley-Harnik
The Sakalava
75
3
Clothing, Speaking, and Lying
78
8
Spirit Possession
86
4
Naming and Clothing
90
4
Substantiating Identity and Concealing Falsity
94
5
Clothing Spirits, Purifying Relics, and Reconstructing Tombs
99
3
Wrapping Ancestors and Claiming Power
102
3
Death, Life, and Politics
105
12
Dressing for the Next Life: Raffia Textile Production and Use among the Kuba of Zaire
117
24
Patricia Darish
The Kuba: Ethnic Diversity
118
2
Raffia Textiles: Complementarity in Production
120
3
The Dynamics of Textile Fabrication
123
1
Ownership of Textiles
124
3
Raffia Textiles and Their Uses
127
3
The Context of Use: Raffia Textile Display at Funerals
130
3
Presentation of the Body at Funerals
133
2
Dressing for the Next Life
135
2
Why the Dead Wear Decorated Raffia Textiles
137
4
Why Do Ladies Sing the Blues? Indigo Dyeing, Cloth Production, and Gender Symbolism in Kodi
141
36
Janet Hoskins
The Sumbanese ``Blues'': Indigo Dyeing in Context
142
3
Patrilineages, Matriclans, and the Secrets of Indigo
145
4
The Dangers of ``Blueness''
149
2
Cloth Production and the Production of Children
151
4
Cloth in Mythology and Song
155
3
The Exchange of Cloth and the Exchange of Women
158
4
From Cloth to Skin: Female Tattooing as a Rite of Maturity
162
2
``Blueness,'' Cloth, and Gender Identity
164
13
PART II Capitalism and the Meanings of Cloth
Rumpelstiltskin's Bargain: Folklore and the Merchant Capitalist Intensification of Linen Manufacture in Early Modern Europe
177
38
Jane Schneider
Linen in European History
179
3
Mercantilist Doctrine and the Linen Promoters
182
5
Linen Promotion and the Mobilization of Labor
187
10
Flax, Fairies, and the Demonization of Spirits
197
3
The Environmental Impact of Flax Production
200
7
Promoters, Peasants, and Rumpelstiltskins
207
8
Spun Virtue, the Lacework of Folly, and the World Wound Upside-Down: Seventeenth-Century Dutch Depictions of Female Handwork
215
28
Linda Stone-Ferrier
Exemplary Female Spinners and Winders
216
5
Female Handwork as an Erotic Metaphor
221
4
The Male Spinner and Winder: The Topsy-Turvy World
225
4
Spinning Rooms and ``Women-on-Top''
229
3
A New Pictorial Context for the Female Winder
232
11
Embroidery for Tourists: A Contemporary Putting-Out System in Oaxaca, Mexico
243
32
Ronald Waterbury
The Origins of Embroidering in San Antonino
246
3
The Rise of Putting-Out Operations
249
1
The Organization of the Work
250
2
Costs and Returns
252
2
Product Quality
254
1
Marketing
255
2
Government Involvement
257
1
Embroidery in San Antonino's Socioeconomic Structure
257
3
The Wealth Ranking of Putting-Out Households
260
1
Gender Relations and the Putting-Out Business
261
4
Consequences of the Putting-Out System
265
10
PART III Cloth in Large-Scale Societies
Cloth and Its Function in the Inka State:
275
28
John V. Murra
Andean Textiles: An Introduction
275
4
Peasant Uses of Cloth
279
2
Claims on Peasant and Ethnic Cloth
281
4
Textiles at Court and in the Army
285
6
The Power of Cloth in Exchange
291
12
Cloth, Clothes, and Colonialism: India in the Nineteenth Century
303
52
Bernard S. Cohn
Turbans of Identity
304
5
The British as They Wished to be Seen
309
3
Clothes and the Constitution of Authority
312
4
From Robes of Honor to Mantles of Subordination
316
5
``Orientalizing'' India
321
7
The Gaekwar and the King
328
3
Indians in Everyday Clothes
331
7
The Uniform of the Indian National Congress
338
7
Heads and Feet; Turbans and Shoes
345
10
Gandhi and Khadi, the Fabric of Indian Independence
355
22
Susan S. Bean
Lessons in the Social Meaning of Costume
356
4
Cloth in Economic Nationalism
360
5
The Mahatma as Semiotician
365
12
The Changing Fortunes of Three Archaic Japanese Textiles
377
40
Louise Allison Cort
Mulberry-Plant Fibers as Sacred Threads and Sacred Cloth
380
3
Harmonizing of Opposing Elements in Sacred Cloth
383
3
``Thick Cloth'' and Rural Survival
386
5
Silken Kuzu Cloth: From Luxury Fabric to Wallpaper
391
5
Banana-Fiber Cloth and Okinawan Cultural Identity
396
10
Change and Survival
406
9
Glossary of Japanese Written Forms
415
2
Index
417