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Tables of Contents for Dress Codes
Chapter/Section Title
Page #
Page Count
List of Tables and Illustrations
xi
Acknowledgments
xvii
Part 1: Introduction
Dress in Societal Discourse
3
16
The Notion of Public Memory
5
2
Clothing Semiotics
7
6
Individual Speech
13
1
``Publicspeak''
14
1
Fashion
14
2
Notes
16
3
Nineteenth-Century Theories of Clothing
19
20
The Modesty Theory
20
2
The Protection Theory
22
3
Modern Protective Garb
25
1
The Adornment Theory
25
8
Notes
33
6
Part 2: Characteristics of Modern Social Discourse
New Institutional Patterns of Discourse
39
9
Spirituality and the Denial of the Body
40
1
Renaissance Individualism and Economic Success
41
2
Modern Rationality
43
3
Notes
46
2
Dressing the Public Self
48
21
Sociocultural Background
48
1
The Demise of Male Fashion
49
1
Goal-Directed Behavior
49
2
The Norm of Self-Restraint
51
1
Presentation of the Public Self
52
3
Stability of Appearance
55
1
Stigma Symbols
56
1
Clothing Signs in the Public Place
57
3
Challenges to Nineteenth- and Twentieth-Century Work Orientation
60
1
Challenging the Norm of Self-Restraint
61
1
Casual Wear
62
2
Notes
64
5
Part 3: Clothing Signs and Social Imperatives
The Image of Power
69
14
Charismatic Dictatorship
70
1
Monarchy
70
3
Power in the American Presidency
73
1
Origins of the Image of Power
74
3
Images of Power in Christian Art
77
2
Power and Victimhood
79
2
Notes
81
2
The Image of Authority
83
20
Uniforms
83
3
Nonuniform Uniforms in the Corporate World
86
2
The Executive Role
88
1
Origins of the Image of Authority
89
2
The Sociocultural Background of Uniforms
91
8
Notes
99
4
Gender Images
103
32
Theories of Gender Distinction
103
1
Socialization to Gender
104
6
Female Gender
110
12
Male Gender
122
8
Notes
130
5
Seductive Images
135
44
Female Seductive Images
135
20
Male Seductive Images
155
14
Notes
169
10
Part 4: Clothing Symbols and Cultural Values
Wealth and Beauty in the Middle Ages
179
13
Wealth
181
5
Beauty
186
2
The Book of Hours and the Diffusion of the Beauty Ideal
188
2
Notes
190
2
Leisure and Political Hierarchy
192
10
Leisure
192
1
Political Hierarchy
192
6
Court Style, Decorum, and Manners
198
2
Notes
200
2
Commerce and Fashion
202
6
Commerce
202
1
The Emergence of Fashion
202
2
Fashion As an Economic Good
204
2
Fashion and the Individual
206
1
Notes
207
1
Beauty As Perfection of Physical Form
208
19
The Novel
209
3
The Beautiful
212
2
The History of Beauty As a Cultural Value
214
4
Learning to Recognize Beauty
218
1
Beauty Through Surgery and Cosmetics
219
4
The Utility of Beauty
223
1
Notes
224
3
The Youth Ideal
227
12
Creating a Social Identity
230
1
Age Stratification
231
1
Sociocultural Background
232
2
Mass Marketing
234
1
Demographic Changes
235
1
Personal Response to Aging
236
1
Notes
237
2
The Health Ideal
239
14
Sanitation and Cleanliness
240
1
Diet
241
1
Utopian Writers
241
1
Reducing Risk
241
1
Preventing Tuberculosis
242
1
Adult Height and Weight Tables
243
2
The Well-Child Clinic
245
1
Prevention of Illness As the Physician's Domain
245
2
The Visual Conjoining of Values
247
1
The Suntan
247
1
The Lean and Muscular Male Body
248
1
Notes
249
4
Part 5: Publicspeak
Clothing Tie-Signs
253
16
Individuals Who Dissent
254
3
Individuals Who Resist Sociocultural Change
257
5
Individuals Who Protest an Inferior Identity
262
5
Notes
267
2
Clothing Tie-Symbols
269
25
Claiming a Divergent Identity
269
2
Trendy Attire
271
9
Seeking Self-Definition
280
1
Anticipatory Socialization
281
1
College Groups
282
1
Ethnic Identity
282
1
Emulating Sports and Entertainment Celebrities
283
2
Imitating a President's Wife
285
1
Expressing Political Values and Goals
285
4
Notes
289
5
The Presidency and Contemporary Fashion
294
27
The U.S. Presidency and Male Fashion
297
1
The U.S. Presidency and Female Fashion
298
1
The Reagan Presidency
298
4
The Bush Presidency
302
3
Historical Perspective
305
3
The Clinton Presidency
308
2
1990s Fashion Process
310
4
European Fashions
314
3
Notes
317
4
The Personal Self
321
18
Legitimacy of an Individuated Self
321
1
Continuant Identity
322
1
Temporary Identity
323
1
Motives for Personal Dress
324
11
Alternatives and Ambiguity
335
1
Notes
336
3
Conclusion
339
2
Bibliography
341
12
Index
353