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Tables of Contents for Survey of Historic Costume a History of
Chapter/Section Title
Page #
Page Count
Preface
xi
Chapter 1 Introduction
1
10
The Origins of Dress
1
1
Functions of Dress
2
1
Designation of Gender Differences
2
1
Designation of Age
2
1
Designation of Status
2
1
Identification of Group Membership
3
1
Ceremonial Use of Clothing
3
1
Enhancement of Sexual Attractiveness
3
1
Clothing as a Means of Communication
3
1
Clothing as an Art Form
4
1
Limitations to the Design of Garments
4
1
Cross-Cultural Influences
5
1
The Phenomenon of Fashion in Western Dress
5
1
Fashionable Dress and Folk Dress
6
1
Sources of Evidence for the Study of Historic Costume
6
1
Review Questions
7
1
Notes
7
1
Recommended Readings
8
1
Some Notes on Using this Book
9
2
PART I THE ANCIENT WORLD C. 3000 B.C.- A.D. 300
11
62
TABLE I.1 CIVILIZATIONS OF THE ANCIENT WORLD
12
3
Chapter 2 The Ancient Middle East C.3500-600 B.C.
15
22
CHRONOLOGY
16
Historical Background: Mesopotamia
15
1
Historical Background: Egypt
16
1
Differences in the Development of Egyptian and Mesopotamian Civilizations
17
1
Mesopotamian Civilization
18
1
Social Structure
18
1
The Family
18
1
Sources of Evidence for the Study of Sumerian Costume
19
1
Mesopotamian Costume / Sumerian Costume for Men and Women: c.3500-2500 B.C.
19
1
Costume Components for Men and Women
19
1
Mesopotamian Costume / Later Sumerians and the Babylonians: c.2500-1000 B.C.
20
1
Costume Components for Men / Military Dress: c.2500-1000 B.C.
20
1
Costume Components for Men / Civilian Dress: c.2500-1000 B.C.
20
1
Costume Components for Women: c. 2500-1000 B.C.
21
1
Mesopotamian Costume / Later Babylonians and the Assyrians: c. 1000-600 B.C.
21
3
The Tunic
22
1
Costume Components for Men: c. 1000-600 B.C.
22
2
Costume Components for Men / Military Dress
24
1
Costume Components for Women: c.1000-600 B.C.
24
1
Mesopotamian Costume for Children: c. 3500-600 B.C.
24
1
Egyptian Civilization
24
1
Social Structure
24
1
Sources of Evidence for Study of Egyptian Costume
25
1
Egyptian Art
25
1
The Contents of Tombs
25
1
Egyptian Decorative Motifs
25
1
Contributions of Artisans to Costume
26
1
Egyptian Costume for Men: c. 3000-300 B.C.
26
1
Costume Components for Men
26
1
CONTEMPORARY COMMENTS 2.1
27
2
Egyptian Costume for Women: c. 3000-300 B.C.
29
2
Costume Components for Women
29
1
Costume Components for Men and Women
30
1
Egyptian Costume for Children: c. 3000-300 B.C.
31
1
Egyptian Costume for Specialized Occupations
31
Military Costume
33
1
Religious Costume
33
1
Costume for Musicians, Dancers, and Acrobats
33
ILLUSTRATED TABLE 2.1 EXAMPLES OF HEADDRESS WORN IN ANCIENT EGYPT
32
2
Summary
34
1
Review Questions
34
1
Notes
34
1
Selected Readings
34
3
Chapter 3 Crete and Greece c. 2900-300 B.C.
37
18
CHRONOLOGY
38
Minoan and Mycenaean Civilizations
37
2
Historical Background
37
1
Social Organization and Material Culture of Minoan and Mycenaean Civilizations
38
1
Art and Technology of Minoan and Mycenaean Civilizations
38
1
Minoan Costume for Men and Women: 2900-1150 B.C.
39
3
Costume Components for Men and Women
39
3
Minoan Costume for Children: 2900-1150 B.C.
42
1
Transitions in the Dominant Styles
42
1
Greece
42
2
Historical Background
42
1
Social Organization of the Greek Civilization
43
1
Fabrics and Cloth Production
43
1
Source of Evidence for the Study of Greek Costume
44
1
Greek Art
44
1
CONTEMPORARY COMMENTS 3.1
45
1
Greek Costume for Men and Women: 800-300 B.C.
45
1
Costume Components for Men and Women
45
1
TABLE 3.1 TYPES OF CHITONS WORN BY MEN AND WOMEN IN GREECE
46
3
CONTEMPORARY COMMENTS 3.2
49
1
Greek Costume for Children: 800-300 B.C.
49
1
Greek Costume for Specialized Occupations
50
1
Military Costume
50
1
Theatrical Costume
50
1
ILLUSTRATED TABLE 3.1 EXAMPLES OF HAIR AND HEADDRESS WORN BY MEN AND WOMEN IN GREECE
51
1
Summary / Greek Costume
52
1
Review Questions
52
1
Notes
52
1
Selected Readings
53
2
Chapter 4 Etruria and Rome c. 800 B.C.-A.D. 400
55
18
CHRONOLOGY
56
1
The Etruscans
55
2
Historical Background
55
1
Social Life of the Etruscans
56
1
Art and Trade of the Etruscans
56
1
Etruscan Costume for Men and Women: c. 800-200 B.C.
57
1
Costume Components for Men and Women
57
1
Etruscan Costume for Children: c. 800-200 B.C.
58
8
CONTEMPORARY COMMENTS 4.1
66
The Romans
59
2
Historical Background
59
1
Social Life in the Roman Empire
60
1
Fabrics and Clothing Production
60
1
Sources of Evidence for the Study of Roman Costume
61
1
Roman Costume for Men and Women: 500 B.C.-A.D. 400
61
1
Costume Components for Men: 500 B.C.-A.D. 400
62
1
The Toga
62
1
TABLE 4.1 THE APPEARANCE AND SIGNIFICANCE OF VARIOUS TYPES OF TOGAS
62
5
Costume Components for Women: 500 B.C.-A.D. 400
64
1
Costume Components for Men and Women: 500 B.C.-A.D. 400
64
3
Roman Costume for Children: 500 B.C.-A.D. 400
67
1
Military Costume for Men During the Roman Empire
67
1
Roman Costume for Special Events
68
1
The Synthesis
68
1
Bridal Costume
68
1
Religious Garb
68
1
Changes in Costume During the Declining Years of the Roman Empire
68
1
ILLUSTRATED TABLE 4.1 EXAMPLES OF HAIRSTYLES AND HEADDRESS WORN BY MEN AND WOMEN DURING THE ROMAN EMPIRE
69
Summary / Etruscan and Roman Costume
68
Review Questions
70
1
Notes
70
1
Selected Readings
71
2
PART II THE MIDDLE AGES C. 300-1500
73
58
Chapter 5 The Early Middle Ages c. 300-1300
77
30
CHRONOLOGY
78
The Byzantine Period c. 330-1453
77
3
Historical Background
77
1
Social Organization in the Byzantine Period
78
1
Culture, Art, and Technology in the Byzantine Period
78
2
Byzantine Costume for Men: A.D. 300-1450
80
1
Costume Components for Men
80
1
Byzantine Costume for Women: A.D. 300-1453
81
2
Costume Components for Women
81
2
Byzantine Costume for Men and Women: A.D. 300-1450
83
1
Costume Components for Men and Women
83
1
Western Europe from the Fall of the Roman Empire to A.D. 900
83
1
Historical Background: The Fall of the Roman Empire
83
1
Historical Background: The Merovingian and Carolingian Dynasties
84
1
CONTEMPORARY COMMENTS 5.1
84
1
Costume in Western Europe: Fall of the Roman Empire to A.D. 900
85
1
Costume for Men: The Merovingian and Carolingian Dynasties
85
1
Costume Components for Men: The Merovingian Period
85
1
Costume Components for Men: The Carolingian Period
85
1
Costume for Women: The Merovingian and Carolingian Dynasties
86
1
Costume Components for Women: The Merovingian Period
86
1
Costume Components for Men: The Carolingian Period
86
1
Clerical Costume in the Early Middle Ages
86
1
Dress for Priests
86
1
Monastic Dress
87
1
Historical Background: 10th-13th Centuries
87
1
The Feudal Monarchies
87
1
Political Developments in Europe: 900-1300
88
1
The German Dynasties
88
1
Anglo-Saxon and Norman Britain
88
1
The French Kings
88
1
Factors Related to Developments in Costume
89
1
The Crusades
89
1
Medieval Castles and Courts
90
1
Town Life
90
1
Fabric Production
90
1
Source of Evidence for the Study of Costume
90
6
Art
90
6
TABLE 5.1 OLD ENGLISH AND FRENCH COSTUME TERMS
96
1
Costume for Men: 10th and 11th Centuries
91
1
Costume Components for Men
91
1
Costume for Women: 10th and 11th Centuries
92
1
Costume Components for Women
92
1
Costume for Men: 12th Century
92
1
Costume Components for Men
92
1
Costume for Women: 12th Century
93
1
Costume Components for Women
93
1
CONTEMPORARY COMMENTS 5.2
93
3
Problems of Costume Terminology in the 13th Century
96
5
Costume for Men: 13th Century
98
1
Costume Components for Men
99
1
Costume for Women: 13th Century
99
1
Costume Components for Women
100
1
Accessories of Dress for Men and Women: 10th-13th Centuries
101
1
Military Costume
102
1
Summary
103
1
Review Questions
104
1
Notes
104
1
Selected Readings
104
3
Chapter 6 The Late Middle Ages c. 1300-1500
107
24
CHRONOLOGY
108
Historical Background
107
1
Medieval Social Structure
108
2
The Peasant
108
1
The Nobility
109
1
The Bourgeoisie
110
1
Fabrics and Tailors
110
1
CONTEMPORARY COMMENTS 6.1
110
1
Source of Evidence for the Study of Costume
111
12
Costume for Men: 14th Century
111
1
Costume Components for Men
111
3
Costume for Women: 14th Century
114
1
Costume Components for Women
114
1
Costume for Men and Women: 15th Century
115
2
Costume for Men: 15th Century
117
1
Costume Components for Men
117
2
Costume for Women: 15th Century
119
1
Costume Components for Women
119
4
ILLUSTRATED TABLE 6.1 EVOLUTION AND STYLES OF 15TH-CENTURY HEADDRESS FOR WOMEN
123
Costume for Children: 14th and 15th Centuries
122
2
Mourning Costume for Men and Women
124
1
Costume for Specialized Occupations
125
1
Student Costume
125
1
Military Dress
125
1
CONTEMPORARY COMMENTS 6.2
126
1
Summary
127
1
Review Questions
127
1
Notes
128
1
Selected Readings
128
3
PART III THE RENAISSANCE C. 1400-1600
131
44
Chapter 7 The Italian Renaissance c. 1400-1600
135
16
CHRONOLOGY
136
Historical Background
135
1
The Political Organization in Renaissance Italy
135
1
Life in Renaissance Italy
136
1
The Cloth Industries in Renaissance Italy
137
1
Cross-Cultural Influences from the Middle East
137
1
Sources of Evidence for the Study of Costume
137
1
CONTEMPORARY COMMENTS 7.1
138
1
Costume for Men: 1400-1450
138
2
Costume Components for Men
138
2
Costume for Women: 1400-1450
140
1
Costume Components for Women
140
1
Changes in Costume
140
1
Costume for Men: 1450-1500
140
6
Costume Components for Men
140
4
Costume for Women: 1450-1500
144
1
Costume Components for Women
144
1
Costume for Men and Women: 16th Century
145
1
Costume Components for Men
145
1
Costume Components for Women
145
1
Regional Distinctions in Costume for Men and Women: 15th and 16th Centuries
146
2
Distinctive Venetian Costume for Women
146
1
Distinctive Venetian Costume for Men
147
1
Venetian Dress for Officials
147
1
Costume for Children During the Italian Renaissance
148
1
CONTEMPORARY COMMENTS 7.2
148
1
Summary
148
1
Review Questions
149
1
Notes
149
1
Selected Readings
149
2
Chapter 8 The Northern Renaissance c. 1500-1600
151
24
CHRONOLOGY
152
Historical Background
151
2
Developments in Germany
151
1
Developments in Spain
152
1
Developments in England
153
1
Developments in France
153
1
Royal Intermarriages During the 16th Century
153
1
TABLE 8.1 ROYAL INTERMARRIAGES DURING THE 16TH CENTURY
154
1
Cross-Cultural Influences from the Middle East
154
1
Decorative Techniques and Textiles of the 16th Century
154
1
Costume for Men and Women: 16th Century
155
1
Costume for Men: 1500-1515
155
Costume Components for Men
155
1
Costume for Men: 1515-1550
156
1
Costume Components for Men
157
1
Costume for Men: 1550-1600
157
1
Costume Components for Men
157
4
Costume for Women: 16th Century
161
1
Costume Components for Women: 1500-1530
162
1
Costume Components for Women in Germany: 1530-1575
163
1
Costume Components for Women in Other Northern European Countries: 1530-1575
163
2
Costume Components for Women: 1575-1600
165
CONTEMPORARY COMMENTS 8.1
162
Costume for Men and Women: 16th Century
166
4
Costume for Children: 16th Century
170
1
Summary
170
2
Review Questions
172
1
Notes
172
1
Selected Readings
172
3
PART IV BAROQUE AND ROCOCO C. 1600-1800
175
76
The Arts During the Baroque and Rococo Periods
175
1
Expanding Trade with the Far East
176
1
The Cotton Trade with India
177
1
The Industrial Revolution
178
1
The Consumer Society and the Acceleration of Fashion Change
178
3
Chapter 9 The Seventeenth Century 1600-1700
181
42
CHRONOLOGY
182
Historical Background
181
2
France
181
1
England
182
1
Social Life During the 17th Century
183
1
The French Court
183
1
England
183
1
Holland
183
1
America
184
1
Some Distinctive Costume Traditions
184
1
Puritan Costume
184
1
Spanish Costume
184
1
CONTEMPORARY COMMENTS 9.1
185
1
Costume for Men: 17th Century
186
1
Costume Components for Men: 1625-1650
186
1
TABLE 9.1 TERMS DESCRIBING MEN'S TROUSER-TYPE GARMENTS: 16TH-19TH CENTURY
187
9
Costume Components for Men: 1650-1680
189
1
Costume Components for Men: 1680-1710
190
2
Costume for Women: 17th Century
192
1
Costume Components for Women: 1630-1660
192
1
Costume Components for Women: 1660-1680
193
1
Costume Components for Women: 1680-1700
194
2
Costume for Men and Women: 17th Century
196
1
CONTEMPORARY COMMENTS 9.2
197
1
Costume for Children: 17th Century
197
3
Summary
200
1
Review Questions
200
1
Notes
200
1
Selected Readings
200
3
ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOR
203
20
Chapter 10 The Eighteenth Century 1800-1900
223
28
CHRONOLOGY
224
Historical Background
223
1
Social Life in 18th-century France
224
1
Social Life of the Affluent in 18th-century England
225
1
Clothes and the Poor
226
1
The American Colonies in the 18th Century
226
1
Urban Clothing Styles
226
1
Working Class and Rural Dress
226
1
Some Influences on Costume in the 18th Century
226
2
CONTEMPORARY COMMENTS 10.1
228
1
Costume for Men: 18th Century
228
2
Components of Underwear and Neckwear
228
1
Costume Components for Men: up to mid-18th Century
228
2
Changes in Men's Costume after the mid-18th-Century
230
3
Costume Components for Men: after the mid 18th-Century
230
3
Costume for Women: 18th Century
233
1
Components of Undergarments
233
1
CONTEMPORARY COMMENTS 10.2
234
4
Costume Components for Women: 1715-1730
234
2
Costume Components for Women: 1730-1760
236
1
Costume Components for Women: 1760-1790
237
1
ILLUSTRATED TABLE 10.1 TYPICAL WOMEN'S HAIRSTYLES AND HEADDRESS FOR THE 18TH CENTURY
238
3
Costume Components for Women: 18th Century
239
2
Costume for Active Sports for Men and Women: 18th Century
241
1
Costume for Children: 18th Century
242
1
First Half of the 18th Century
242
1
Second Half of the 18th Century
243
1
CONTEMPORARY COMMENTS 10.3
243
2
Summary
245
1
Review Questions
246
1
Notes
247
1
Selected Readings
247
4
PART V THE NINETEENTH CENTURY 1800-1900
251
96
Historical Background
251
1
France
251
1
England
251
1
Italy and Austria
251
1
The United States
252
1
Industrialization
253
1
Cross-Cultural Influences on Fashion
254
1
Textiles from India
254
1
Resumption of Trade with Japan
255
1
Morality and Values in the 19th Century
255
1
Dress Reform for Women
256
1
Changes in Clothing for Men
257
1
The End of an Age
257
2
Chapter 11 The Directoire Period and the Empire Period 1790-1820
259
16
CHRONOLOGY
260
Historical Background
259
5
France: The Revolution and the Directory
259
2
France: The Empire
261
1
England
261
2
The United States
263
1
The Arts and Costume Styles of the Period
263
1
CONTEMPORARY COMMENTS 11.1
264
1
The Revolution in Men's Clothes
265
1
Costume for Women: Directoire and Empire Periods
265
3
Costume Components for Women
265
3
ILLUSTRATED TABLE 11.1 TYPICAL WOMEN'S HAIRSTYLES AND HEADDRESSES IN THE EMPIRE PERIOD
268
2
Costume for Men: Directoire and Empire Periods
270
3
Costume Components for Men
270
2
Costume for Children: The Empire Period
272
1
Costume Components for Boys
272
1
Costume Components for Girls
272
1
Summary
273
1
Review Questions
273
1
Notes
273
1
Selected Readings
273
2
Chapter 12 The Romantic Period 1820-1850
275
22
CHRONOLOGY
276
1
Historical Background
276
1
England
276
1
France
276
1
The United States
277
1
Women's Roles and Clothing Styles
277
1
Sources of Evidence for the Study of Costume
278
1
Costume for Women: The Romantic Period
278
6
Costume Components for Women: 1820-1835
279
3
Costume Components for Women: 1836-1850
282
3
Costume Components for Women: 1820-1850
285
ILLUSTRATED TABLE 12.1 EXAMPLES OF WOMEN'S HAIRSTYLES AND HEADDRESS: 1820-1850
284
3
Costume for Men: The Romantic Period
287
4
Costume Components for Men: 1820-1840
287
1
Costume Components for Men: 1840-1850
287
1
Costume Components for Men: 1820-1850
288
2
Costume for Children: The Romantic Period
290
1
Costume Components for Boys
291
1
Costume Components for Girls
291
1
Clothing for Slaves in North America
291
1
COMMENTARY COMMENTS 12.1
292
1
Summary
293
1
Review Questions
294
1
Notes
294
1
Selected Readings
294
3
Chapter 13 The Crinoline Period 1850-1869
297
22
CHRONOLOGY
298
Worth and the Paris Couture
297
1
Historical Background
298
3
England
298
1
France
298
1
The United States
299
2
CONTEMPORARY COMMENTS 13.1
301
1
Early Attempts at Dress Reform--The "Bloomer" Costume
301
1
Gymnastics for Women
302
1
Costume for Men and Women: The Crinoline Period
303
1
Costume Components for Women: 1850-1870
303
1
ILLUSTRATED TABLE 13.1 SELECTED UNDERGARMENTS FOR WOMEN, MEN AND CHILDREN FROM THE SECOND HALF OF THE 19TH CENTURY
304
5
ILLUSTRATED TABLE 13.2 TYPICAL WOMEN'S HAIRSTYLES AND HEADDRESS: 1850-1860
309
7
Costume Components for Men: 1850-1870
311
3
Costume for Children: The Crinoline Period
314
1
Costume Components for Boys and Girls: 1850-1870
314
1
Costume Components for Boys: after age 5 or 6
315
1
Summary
316
1
Review Questions
316
1
Notes
316
1
Selected Readings
316
3
Chapter 14 The Bustle Period and the Nineties 1870-1900
319
28
CHRONOLOGY
320
Historical Background: 1870-1890
319
1
Historical Background: 1890-1900
320
1
Social Life: 1870-1890
320
1
Sports for Women
321
1
Ready-to-Wear Clothing
321
1
The Visual Arts and Costume
322
1
Aesthetic Dress
322
1
Art Nouveau
323
1
CONTEMPORARY COMMENTS 14.1
323
1
Costume for Women: The Bustle Period, 1870-1890
324
7
General Features of Women's Costume: 1870-1890
324
1
Specific Features of Women's Dress Styles during Different Phases of the Bustle Period
325
6
Costume for Women: The Nineties
331
4
Costume Components for Women
331
4
ILLUSTRATED TABLE 14.1 SELECTED HATS AND HAIRSTYLES FOR WOMEN: 1870-1900
335
3
ILLUSTRATED TABLE 14.2 SELECTED FOOTWEAR FOR WOMEN AND MEN: 1870-1900
338
Costume for Men: 1870-1900
336
5
Costume Components for Men
336
4
Costume for Children: 1870-1900
340
1
Costume Components for Boys
340
1
Costume Components for Boys and Girls
341
1
TABLE 14.1 TYPICAL STAGES IN THE ACQUISITION OF ADULT CLOTHING IN THE LATE 19TH CENTURY
341
1
Mourning Costume in the Second Half of the 19th Century
342
1
Summary
343
1
Review Questions
344
1
Notes
344
1
Selected Readings
344
3
PART VI THE TWENTIETH CENTURY 1900-1990
347
156
Art and Costume in the 20th Century
348
1
New Sources of Evidence for the Study of Costume
348
3
Chapter 15 The Edwardian Period and World War I 1900-1920
351
22
CHRONOLOGY
352
Historical Background
351
1
The United States
351
1
Great Britain and France at the Turn of the Century
351
1
World War I
352
2
The Effect of the War on Fashions
353
1
Influences on Fashion
353
1
The French Couture and Paul Poiret
353
1
CONTEMPORARY COMMENTS 15.1
354
2
Fortuny
354
1
Oriental Influences on Art and Fashion
355
1
The Changing Role of American Women
355
1
The Automobile
355
1
American High Society
356
1
Costume for Women: 1900-1920
356
8
Costume Components for Women: 1900-1908
356
2
Costume Components for Women: 1909-1914
358
3
Costume Components for Women: 1914-1918
361
2
Costume for Women: 1918-1920
363
1
Costume for Men: 1900-1920
363
1
Costume Components for Men
363
1
ILLUSTRATED TABLE 15.1 SELECTED HAIRSTYLES AND HATS FOR WOMEN: 1900-1920
364
1
ILLUSTRATED TABLE 15.2 SELECTED EXAMPLES OF FOOTWEAR FOR WOMEN: 1900-1920
365
5
Costume for Children: 1900-1920
370
1
Costume Components for Girls
370
1
Costume Components for Boys
370
1
Costume Components for Boys and Girls
371
1
Summary
371
1
Review Questions
371
1
Notes
372
1
Selected Readings
372
1
Chapter 16 The Twenties, Thirties and World War II 1920-1947
373
36
CHRONOLOGY
374
Historical Background
373
2
The Twenties
373
2
The Thirties
375
1
CONTEMPORARY COMMENTS 16.1
375
1
CONTEMPORARY COMMENTS 16.2
376
1
World War II
377
1
Some Influences on Fashions
377
4
The Movies
377
1
Royalty and Cafe Society
377
1
Sports
378
1
The Automobile
378
1
Technological Developments Affecting Fashion
378
1
The French Couture
379
2
TABLE 16.1 SOME DESIGNERS OF THE PARIS COUTURE: 1920-1947
381
2
American Designers
380
3
Art Movements and their Influence on Fashion
383
1
Art Deco
383
1
Surrealism
383
1
Costume for Women: 1920-1947
383
9
Costume Components for Women: 1920-1930
383
4
Costume Components for Women: 1930-1947
387
3
Costume Components for Women: 1920-1947
390
2
ILLUSTRATED TABLE 16.1 SELECTED HAIRSTYLES AND HATS FOR WOMEN: 1920-1947
392
1
ILLUSTRATED TABLE 16.2 SOME EXAMPLES OF FOOTWEAR FOR WOMEN: 1920-1947
393
3
Costume for Men: 1920-1947
396
7
Costume Components for Men: 1920-1947
396
7
Costume for Children: 1920-1947
403
3
Costume Components for Girls
403
1
Costume Components for Boys
403
1
Costume Components for Boys and Girls
404
2
Summary
406
1
Review Questions
406
1
Notes
406
1
Selected Readings
407
2
Chapter 17 The New Look and Beyond 1947-1964
409
30
CHRONOLOGY
410
Historical Background
409
3
International Developments: 1947-1954
409
1
The United States: 1947-1954
410
1
International Developments: 1954-1964
411
1
The United States: 1954-1964
411
1
Influences on Fashion
412
2
The Silent Generation Moves to the Suburbs
412
1
Fashion Influences from the Young
413
1
The Fabric Revolution
413
1
The Impact of Television
414
1
The White House Influences Styles
414
1
Internationalism
414
1
The Changing Couture
414
1
Prominent Designers of the Postwar Couture
415
1
TABLE 17.1 INFLUENTIAL DESIGNERS WORKING IN PARIS: 1947-1960
416
The American Mass Market
415
2
TABLE 17.2 AMERICAN FASHION DESIGNERS WHO CAME TO PROMINENCE DURING WORLD WAR II AND WERE IMPORTANT IN THE 1950s
417
1
American Retailers and the Couture
418
1
New Centers of Fashion Design
418
1
Costume for Women: 1947-1964
418
1
Style Features of the New Look
419
1
CONTEMPORARY COMMENTS 17.1
419
6
Costume Components for Women: 1947-1954
420
5
ILLUSTRATED TABLE 17.1 TYPICAL HAIRSTYLES AND HATS FOR WOMEN: 1947-1964
425
4
Signs of Silhouette Changes: 1954-1964
427
1
Costume Components for Women: 1954-1964
427
2
ILLUSTRATED TABLE 17.2 SELECTED EXAMPLES OF POPULAR FOOTWEAR FOR WOMEN: 1947-1964
429
3
Costume for Men: 1947-1964
432
2
Costume Components for Men
432
2
Costume for Children: 1947-1964
434
2
Infants and Pre-school Children
435
1
Costume Components for Girls
435
1
Costume Components for Boys
435
1
Costume Components for Boys and Girls
435
1
ILLUSTRATED TABLE 17.3 CHILDREN'S CLOTHING STYLES: 1947-1964
436
Summary
435
Review Questions
437
1
Notes
437
1
Selected Readings
437
2
Chapter 18 The Vietnam Era 1964-1974
439
28
CHRONOLOGY
440
Historical Background
439
3
Europe and the Middle East
439
1
The Emergence of Japan as an Economic Power
439
1
The United States
440
2
The Impact of Social Change on Fashion
442
2
Sub-cultural Uniforms
442
1
The Women's Movement
443
1
The Civil Rights Movement
443
1
Other Influences on Fashion
444
1
Political Events
444
1
The Space Age
444
1
The Fine Arts
445
1
Ethnic Looks
445
1
TABLE 18.1 MEDIA INFLUENCES ON FASHION: 1964-1974
445
1
The Changing Fashion Industry
445
2
Increasing Variety in Fashion Segments
446
1
Attempts to Curb Fashion Changes
446
1
CONTEMPORARY COMMENTS 18.1
447
1
TABLE 18.2 INFLUENTIAL DESIGNERS IN PARIS AND OTHER FASHION CENTERS: 1964-1974
448
2
Changes in Fashion Design
450
1
Designers of Men's Clothing
450
1
Costume for Women: 1964-1974
450
5
Costume Components for Women: 1964-1974
450
5
ILLUSTRATED TABLE 18.1 TYPICAL HAIRSTYLES AND HATS FOR WOMEN: 1964-1974
455
1
ILLUSTRATED TABLE 18.2 SELECTED EXAMPLES OF POPULAR FOOTWEAR FOR WOMEN AND MEN: 1964-1974
456
2
The Introduction of the Midi: 1970-1974
457
1
CONTEMPORARY COMMENTS 18.2
458
Costume for Men: 1964-1974
457
5
Costume Components for Men
457
5
Costume for Children: 1964-1974
462
Infants and Toddlers
462
1
Pre-school and School-Age Children
462
1
Costume Components for Girls
462
2
Costume Components for Boys
464
1
Costume Components for Boys and Girls
464
ILLUSTRATED TABLE 18.3 CHILDREN'S CLOTHING STYLES: 1964-1974
463
Summary
464
1
Review Questions
464
1
Notes
465
1
Selected Readings
465
2
Chapter 19 The Post Vietnam Era 1974-1990
467
36
CHRONOLOGY
468
Historical Background: International
467
2
The European Economic Community
467
1
Developments in the Soviet Union
467
1
The Middle East
468
1
Japanese Economic Influences Grow
469
1
Historical Background: The United States
469
2
Political and Economic Developments
469
1
Energy and Environmental Issues
469
1
The Changing American Family
470
1
Changes in the Roles of Women
470
1
The Computer Revolution
471
1
The New Immigrants
471
1
AIDS
471
1
Changes within the Fashion Industry
472
2
The Role of the Haute Couture
472
1
Ready-to-Wear
473
1
TABLE 19.1 SOME PROMINENT AMERICAN DESIGNERS: 1974-90
474
1
TABLE 19.2 DESIGNERS WORKING IN PARIS AND OTHER FASHION CENTERS: 1974-1990
475
2
Changes in Merchandising
476
1
The Prominence of Labels
476
1
Notable Developments and their Influences on Fashion
477
4
Retro Fashions
477
1
Various Social Groups Influence Fashion
477
2
The Media
479
1
The Fine Arts
479
2
TABLE 19.3 MEDIA INFLUENCES ON FASHION: 1974-1990
481
CONTEMPORARY COMMENTS 19.1
480
2
Sports
481
1
Costume for Women and Men: 1974-1990
482
1
Some General Trends
482
Costume for Women
482
10
Costume Components for Women: 1974-1982
482
4
Costume Components for Women: 1982-1990
486
6
ILLUSTRATED TABLE 19.1 TYPICAL HAIRSTYLES AND HEADCOVERINGS FOR WOMEN: 1974-1990
492
1
COSTUME FOR MEN
493
4
Costume Components for Men: 1974-1990
493
4
ILLUSTRATED TABLE 19.2 SELECTED EXAMPLES OF POPULAR FOOTWEAR FOR WOMEN, MEN AND CHILDREN: 1974-1990
497
Costume for Children: 1974-1990
496
Infants and Pre-school Aged Children
496
4
School-Aged Children: Trends Affecting Boys and Girls
500
1
Costume Components for Boys
500
1
Costume Components for Girls
500
ILLUSTRATED TABLE 19.3 CHILDREN'S CLOTHING STYLES: 1974-1990
498
Summary
500
1
Review Questions
501
1
Notes
502
1
Selected Readings
502
1
Bibliography
503
10
Index
513