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Tables of Contents for Physical Testing of Textiles
Chapter/Section Title
Page #
Page Count
Preface
xiii
 
Acknowledgements
xv
 
Introduction
1
25
Reasons for textile testing
1
2
Checking raw materials
1
1
Monitoring production
2
1
Assessing the final product
2
1
Investigation of faulty material
2
1
Product development and research
2
1
Standardisation of testing
3
1
Variation in the material
3
1
Variation caused by the test method
3
1
Sampling
4
11
Terms used in sampling
5
1
Fibre sampling from bulk
6
1
Fibre sampling from combed slivers, rovings and yarn
7
4
Yarn sampling
11
3
Fabric sampling
14
1
Measurement
15
11
Statistical terms
16
2
Determination of number of tests
18
1
Use of computers
18
2
Types of error
20
1
Sources of error
20
1
Repeatability and reproducibility
21
2
Significant figures
23
1
General reading
24
1
References
25
1
Textiles and moisture
26
18
Introduction
26
1
Effect of moisture on physical properties
26
3
Dimensional
26
1
Mechanical
27
1
Electrical
28
1
Atmospheric moisture
29
4
Vapour pressure
30
1
Relative humidity
31
1
Standard atmosphere
32
1
Measurement of atmospheric moisture
32
1
Regain and moisture content
33
7
Regain - humidity relations of textiles
33
2
Factors affecting the regain
35
1
Methods of measuring regain
36
4
Correct invoice weight
40
2
Control of testing room atmosphere
42
2
References
43
1
Fibre dimensions
44
33
Fibre fineness
44
1
Fineness measurement
45
14
Gravimetric
46
2
Fibre fineness by projection microscope
48
2
Fibre fineness by the airflow method
50
2
Cotton fineness by airflow
52
1
Cotton maturity
53
2
IIC/Shirley fineness and maturity tester
55
1
Optical fibre diameter analyser
56
1
Light-scattering methods
56
1
Vibration method
57
2
Wool quality
59
1
Fibre length
59
3
Mean length
60
2
Methods of measurement: direct methods
62
2
WIRA fibre length machine
63
1
Methods of measurement: tuft methods
64
10
Cotton grading
64
1
Comb sorter
65
2
The clamped tuft method
67
2
Fibrograph
69
1
WIRA fibre diagram machine
69
2
Almeter
71
3
High-volume instruments
74
3
General reading
75
1
References
75
2
Yarn tests
77
38
Linear density
77
8
Direct system
77
1
Indirect system
78
1
Folded yarns
79
1
Measuring linear density
80
2
Linear density from a fabric sample
82
3
Twist
85
9
Level of twist
87
2
Measuring twist
89
5
Yarn evenness
94
10
Visual examination
94
1
Cut and weigh methods
94
2
Uster evenness tester
96
5
Zweigle G580
101
3
Hairiness
104
4
Shirley yarn hairiness tester
106
1
Zweigle G565
107
1
Uster tester 3 hairiness meter attachment
108
1
Yarn bulk
108
2
Textured filament yarns
109
1
Friction
110
5
Coil friction
111
1
Measuring yarn friction
112
2
References
114
1
Strength and elongation tests
115
53
Introduction
115
1
Definitions
115
3
Units
115
1
Breaking strength; tensile strength
116
1
Stress
116
1
Specific (mass) stress
116
1
Tenacity
117
1
Breaking length
117
1
Elongation
118
1
Strain
118
1
Extension percentage
118
1
Gauge length
118
1
Force elongation curve
118
14
Yield point
119
3
Modulus
122
3
Work of rupture
125
2
Time dependence
127
2
Elastic recovery
129
3
Factors affecting tensile testing
132
6
Type of testing machine
132
2
Specimen length
134
1
Rate of loading and time to break
134
1
Effect of humidity and temperature
135
1
Previous history of the specimen
136
1
Clamping problems
136
2
Fibre strength
138
4
Single fibre strength
138
2
Bundle strength
140
2
Yarn strength
142
3
Yarn strength: single strand method
143
1
Yarn strength: skein method
144
1
Fabric strength
145
2
Strip strength
145
1
Grab test
146
1
Tear tests
147
7
Measuring tearing strength
147
1
Single rip tear test
148
2
Wing rip tear test
150
2
Elmendorf tear tester
152
2
Bursting strength
154
2
Diaphragm bursting test
154
2
Ball bursting strength
156
1
Stretch and recovery properties
156
4
Seam strength
160
8
Seam slippage
160
1
Seam slippage tests
161
1
Fixed load method
162
2
Upholstery seam slippage
164
1
General reading
165
1
References
166
2
Dimensional stability
168
16
Introduction
168
6
Hygral expansion
169
2
Relaxation shrinkage
171
1
Swelling shrinkage
172
1
Felting shrinkage
173
1
Weft knitted wool fabrics
174
1
Methods of measuring dimensional stability
174
10
Marking out samples
174
1
WIRA steaming cylinder
175
2
Relaxation shrinkage
177
1
Washable wool
177
3
Washing programmes
180
1
Dimensional stability to dry cleaning
181
1
Dimensional stability to dry heat
181
1
General reading
182
1
References
182
2
Serviceability
184
25
Introduction
184
1
Snagging
185
1
Mace snagging test
186
1
Pilling
186
9
Pilling tests
190
5
Abrasion resistance
195
9
Factors affecting abrasion resistance
195
1
Abrasion tests
196
8
Wearer trials
204
5
Advantages of wearer trials
204
1
Disadvantages of wearer trials
205
1
Advantages of laboratory tests
206
1
Disadvantages of laboratory tests
206
1
Design of trials
206
1
References
207
2
Comfort
209
35
Introduction
209
1
Thermal comfort
209
18
Heat balance
209
1
Heat loss
210
7
Air permeability
217
2
Measurement of thermal conductivity
219
4
Measurement of water vapour permeability
223
4
Moisture transport
227
5
Wetting
228
1
Wicking
229
1
Longitudinal wicking
230
1
Wicking test
230
1
Transverse wicking
231
1
Sensorial comfort
232
1
Water absorption
233
2
Static immersion
233
1
Wettability of textile fabrics
234
1
Sinking time
235
1
Water repellency
235
9
Spray rating
236
1
Bundesmann water repellency test
236
3
WIRA shower test
239
2
Credit rain simulation tester
241
1
Hydrostatic head
241
1
References
242
2
Colour fastness testing
244
12
Introduction
244
2
Sample preparation
246
1
Outline of colour fastness tests
246
10
Colour fastness to light
246
4
Colour fastness to other agents
250
5
References
255
1
Objective evaluation of fabric handle
256
40
Handle
256
23
Bending length
256
2
Shirley stiffness test
258
1
Hanging loop method
259
1
Drape
260
2
Crease recovery
262
3
Fabric thickness
265
2
Shear
267
5
Bias extension
272
2
Formability
274
1
Fabric friction
275
4
Kawabata system
279
9
Subjective assessment of fabric handle
279
3
Objective evaluation of fabric handle
282
6
FAST: Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing
288
8
Compression
290
1
Bending length
290
2
Extensibility
292
1
Dimensional stability
293
1
General reading
294
1
References
294
2
Quality
296
10
Definitions of quality
296
1
Types of quality
297
1
Quality control
298
1
Quality assurance
298
1
ISO 9000
298
4
Enquiries and orders
300
1
Purchased material or services
300
1
Inspection and testing
300
1
Calibration of test equipment
301
1
Organisational structure
301
1
Quality audit
301
1
Training
301
1
Textile product labelling
302
1
Fibre content
302
4
Flammability labels
303
2
Origin markings
305
1
Care labelling
305
1
References
305
1
Appendix: conversion factors
306
1
Index
307