Keynote Address

Patterns in the Water: Patterns in the Sand?

A.J. Bowen

Sand Suspension

Field Observations of Nearshore, Wave--Seabed Interactions

D. Hanes

C. Jette

E. Thosteson

C. Vincent

Mechanisms of Sand Suspending Under Non-Breaking and Breaking Irregular Waves

N. Pykhov

S. Kuznetsov

H. Kunz

Convection and Diffusion of Sediment Under Large Waves

A. Peet

A. Davies

Shingle and Mixed Grain Sizes

Coastal Sediment Transport on Shingle Beaches

E. Van Wellen

A. Chadwick

P. Bird

M. Bray

M. Lee

J. Morfett

Hydrodynamics and Sediment Transport on Composite (Mixed Sand/Shingle) and Sand Beaches: A Comparison

T. Mason

G. Voulgaris

D. Simmonds

M. Collins

Grain-Size Influence on Sand Transport Mechanisms

M. Janssen

W. Hassan

R. van der Wal

J. Ribberink

Fractional Threshold of Motion for Mixed Sand Beds and Implications for Sediment Transport Modeling

S. Wallbridge

G. Voulgaris

Selective Sediment Transport in the Nearshore Zone: Field Observations and Potential Mechanisms

P. Hoekstra

K. Houwman

Cross-Shore Sand Transport and Bed Composition

L. van Rijn

Wave Propagation in Shallow Water

A Nonstationary, Parametric Coastal Wave Model

N. Booij

L. Holthuijsen

R. Padilla-Hernandez

A Simple PC-Based Significant Wave Model

T. Butt

P. Russell

D. Huntley

Finite Volume Solutions to Unsteady Free Surface Flow with Application to Gravity Waves

S. Mayer

A. Garapon

I. Sorensen

A Curvilinear, Third-Generation Coastal Wave Model

L. Holthuijsen

N. Booij

R. Padilla-Hernandez

Validation of Three-Dimensional Multigrid Wave Model Against Experimental Data

B. Li

C. Fleming

Numerical Simulations of Wave Transformation in the Nearshore Zone

Y. Eldeberky

O. Sorensen

J. Battjes

Prediction of Velocity Field Under Waves Over Varying Depth

A. Otta

G. Klopman

M. Dingemans

Laboratory Observations and Numerical Simulations of Shoaling Surface Gravity Waves

F. Becq

M. Benoit

P. Forget

Boundary Layers and Mixing

High-Resolution Measurements of Turbulent Fluxes and Dissipation Rates in the Benthic Boundary Layer

G. Voulgaris

J. Trowbridge

W. Shaw

A. Williams III

A Comparison of Field Observations and Quasi-Steady Linear Shear Instabilities

D. Foster

A. Bowen

R. Beach

R. Homan

Mixing Processes Due to Breaking Wave Activity in the Coastal Zone

J. Pearson

I. Guymer

L. Coates

J. West

Dispersive Mixing in the Nearshore

U. Putrevu

I. Svendsen

Sediment Transport Predictors

Comparison Between a Detailed Sediment Transport Model and an Energetics-Based Formula

R. Deigaard

Spectral Test of the Energetic Approach for Suspended Sand Transport in the Surf Zone

S. Kuznetsov

N. Pykhov

Effect of Bed Roughness on Net Sediment Transport by Asymmetrical Waves

C. Villaret

A. Davies

Effect of Grain Size Gradation and Reference Concentration on Sediment Transport Beneath Large Waves

Z. Li

A. Davies

Breaking Waves

Near-Crest Pressure Gradient of Irregular Water Waves Approaching to Break

K. Nadaoka

O. Ono

H. Kurihara

Three-Dimensional Flow Field Measurement of Breaking Waves

J. Hamada

A. Mano

Probability Distribution of Wave and Roller Energy in the Nearshore Zone

M. Boers

Spectral Modeling of Nonlinear Wave Shoaling and Breaking over Arbitrary Depths

S. Beji

K. Nadaoka

Wave Transformation in the Nearshore Zone: A Comparison Between a Non-Linear Model and Large Scale Laboratory Data

F. Ozanne

A. Chadwick, D. Huntley

J. McKee-Smith

Analysis of the Roller in Hydraulic Jumps

J. Veeramony

I. Svendsen

Megaripples and Bars

Sand Transport Over a Breaker Bar in the Surf Zone

B. Grasmeijer

L. van Rijn

Dynamics of One Bar and Multibar Beach Profiles

G. Rozynski

Z. Pruszak

P. Aminti

Remote Sensing and Video

Remote Sensing and Coastal Wave Research

P. Hwang

E. Walsh

An Aerial Video System for Rapidly Measuring Sand Bar Morphology

C. Worley

T. Lippman

J. Haines

A. Sallenger

Strange Kinematics of Sand Bars

N. Plant

R. Homan

Quantitative Estimations of Bar Dynamics from Video Images

S. Aarninkhof

P. Janssen

N. Plant

Cyclic Bar Behaviour Viewed by Video Imagery

K. Wijnberg

R. Holman

The Evaluation of Large Scale (km) Intertidal Beack Morphology on a Macrotidal Beach Using Video Images

M. Davidson

D. Huntley

R. Holman

K. George

Experimental Study of Mixing Processes Using Video Images

A. Rodriguez

E. Bahia

M. Diez

A. Sanchez-Arcilla

J. Redondo

M. Mestres

Wave--Current Interaction

On the Development of Complete Flow Models for Wave--Current Interactions

N. Madden

M. Stynes

G. Thomas

Modeling of Wave--Current Interaction at a River Mouth

B. O'Connor

S. Pan

N. MacDonald

Wave Refraction on a Horizontally Sheared Current in the UKCRF

R. MacIver

R. Simons

Longshore Currents

Non-Linear Modeling of Shear Instabilities

A. Reniers

J. Battjes

Shear Instability of the Longshore Current as a Function of Incoming Wave Parameters

M. Caballeria

A. Falques

V. Iranzo

Horizontal Large-Eddy Computation of Longshore Currents

H. Yagi

K. Nadaoka

Shear Instabilities of Longshore Currents: Flow Characteristics and Momentum Mixing During Superduck

T. Ozkan-Haller

J. Kirby

Beach Profiles

Morphological Effect of Spring-Neap Tidal Variations on Macrotidal Beaches

P. Fisher

T. O'Hare

D.A. Huntley

Simultaneous Observations on Irregular Waves, Currents, Suspended Sediment Concentration and Beach Profile Changes in Large Wave Flume

T. Shimizu

Y. Kawata

Morphological and Sediment Budget Controls on Depth of Closure at Duck, NC

R. Nicholls

W. Birkemeier

Depth of Closure: A Contribution to the Reconciliation of Theory, Practice, and Evidence

M. Capobianco

M. Larson

R. Nicholls

N. Kraus

Nearshore Circulation Patterns

Hydraulic Design of a Large-Scale Longshore Current Recirculation System

D. Hamilton

P. Neilans

J. Rosati

J. Fowler

J. Smith

Flow Modeling Using an Inverse Method with Direct Minimisation

G. Copeland

Changes of Mean Flow Velocity Profiles in a GLM Formulation

J. Groeneweg

M. Dingemans

G. Klopman

Coastal Groundwater Dynamics

P. Nielsen

Regional Studies

Delta '96: Surf-Zone and Nearshore Measurements at the Ebro Delta

A. Sanchez-Arcilla

A. Rodriguez

J. Santas

V. Garcia

R. Kos'yan

S. Kuznetsov

C. Mosso

Littoral Processes, Sediment Budget and Coast Evolution in Vietnam

R. Zeidler

H. Nhuan

Field Studies of Shore Evolution

A. Khabidov

L. Nikiforov

L. Zhindarev

V. Savkin

V. Alymov

O. Muraenko

Rip Currents

Rip Currents

G. Symonds

R. Homan

B. Bruno

Rip Channels and Nearshore Circulation

M. Haller

R. Dalrymple

I. Svendsen

Long-Term Morphodynamics

Coastal Evolution: Modeling Fabric and Form at Successive Spatial Scales

C. Reed

A. Niedoroda

D. Swift

Y. Zhang

J. Carey

M. Steckler

Long-Term Coastal Evolution and Regional Dynamics of a US Pacific Northwest Littoral Cell

G. Kaminsky

P. Ruggiero

G. Gelfenbaum

C. Peterson

Coastal Dynamics Applied to the Prediction of Beach Evolution: El Milagro Beach

J. Galofre

F. Montoya

R. Medina

Evaluation of Long-Term Dune Recession Data

H. Dette

Prediction of Aggregated-Scale Coastal Evolution

H. de Vriend

Long-Term Observations of Migrating Shore-Normal Bars

G. Gelfenbaum

G. Brooks

Breaker Bar Dynamics Predicted by Kalman Filtering

W. Bakker

S. van der Biezen

A. Heemink

M. Knaapen

Effects of Coastal Structures

Wave Transmission and Set-Up at Detached Breakwaters

J. Loveless

D. Debski

Composite Modeling of an Offshore Breakwater Scheme in the UKCRF

S. Ilic

A. Chadwick

B. Li

C. Fleming

CRF Study of Wave Kinematics in Front of Coastal Structures

J. Sutherland

and T. O'Donoghue

Suspended Sediment Response to Wave Reflection

J. Miles

P. Russell

D. Huntley

A Field Investigation of Functional Design Parameter Influence on Groin Performance: The Great Lakes Groin Performance Experiment

G. Meadows

W. Wood

B. Caufield

L. Meadows

T. Bennett

M. Perlin

H. VanSumeren

D. Carpenter

R. Mach

Interaction of Floating Breakwaters with the 2DH Hydrodynamic Processes in the Coastal Zone

E. Kriezi

T. Karambas

C. Koutitas

P. Prinos

Field Measurements of Wave Transmission Through a Rubble Mound Breakwater

D. Simmonds

A. Chadwick

P. Bird

D. Pope

Beach Variability Behind Detached Breakwaters

P. Axe

A. Chadwick

Large-Scale Hydrodynamic Experiments on Submerged Breakwaters

F. Rivero

A. Sanchez-Arcilla

X. Girondella

A. Corrons

Modeling of Hydrodynamic and Morphological Effects of Submerged Breakwaters on the Nearshore Region

T. Karambas

P. Prinos

E. Kriezi

Swash and Intertidal

Monitoring and Modeling Ground Water Behaviour in Sandy Beaches as a Basis for Improved Models of Swash Zone Sediment Transport

A. Baird

T. Mason

D. Horn

T. Baldock

Swash Hydrodynamics on a Steep Beach

T. Baldock

P. Holmes

Measuring Swash Hydrodynamics on a Laboratory Beach

M. Foote

D. Horn

Toward a Better Understanding of Swash Zone Sediment Transport

M. Hughes

G. Masselink

D. Hanslow

D. Mitchell

Surf Zone and Swash Zone Sediment Dynamics on High Energy Beaches: West Auckland, New Zealand

P. Osborne

G. Rooker

Suspended Sediment Transport and Morphological Evolution on an Intertidal Beach

T. Aagard

J. Nielsen

N. Nielsen

B. Greenwood

The Erosion Response of Estuarine Mudflats to Tidal Currents and Waves

M. Christie

K. Dyer

D. Huntley

Beach Nourishment

Beach Topography Response to Nourishment Operations at Ocean City, Maryland

M. Larson

H. Hanson

N. Kraus

M. Gravens

On Beach Nourishment Design

K. Peters

J. Newe

H. Dette

Shoreface Nourishment at Terschelling, the Netherlands: Feeder Berm or Breaker Berm?

R. Spanhoff

E. Biegel

J. van de Graaff

P. Hoekstra

Sand Bar Dynamics and Offshore Beach Nourishment

B. Boczar-Karakiewicz

W. Romanczyk

J. Bona

Morphodynamic Modelling

Morphodynamic Modeling of Shoreface Bars

S. Hulscher

Modeling of Seasonal Variations by Cross-Shore Transport Using One-Line Compatible Methods

H. Hanson

M. Larson

N. Kraus

M. Capobianco

A Behavior-Oriented Model for the Evaluation of Long-Term Lagoon---Coastal Dynamic Interaction Along the Po River Delta

M. Stive

P. Ruol

M. Capobianco

M. Buijsman

A Conceptual Model for Barrier Coasta Behaviour at Decadal Scale: Application to the Trabucador Bar

J. Jimenez

A. Sanchez-Arcilla

Sediment Transport Model and Its Application for Assessment of Sedimentation in Navigable Channels

L. Kaczmarek

R. Ostrowski

Equilibrium Beach Profiles: Effect of Refraction

M. Gonzalez

R. Medina

M. Losada

The Role of Chronology in Long-Term Morphodynamics: Theory, Practice and Evidence

H. Southgate

M. Capobianco

Wave-Induced Circulation

Measurements at a Cusped Beach in the UKCRF

A. Borthwick

Y. Foote

A. Ridehalgh

Wave-Induced Currents in Multiple-Bar Nearshore Zone

M. Szmytkiewicz

Z. Pruszak

R. Zeidler

Investigating Nearshore Circulation Using Inverse Methods

F. Feddersen

R. Guza

S. Elgar

Tidal Inlets

Hydrodynamics and Wave Transformation at Selected South Carolina Tidal Inlets

P. Work

S. Riffat

Current-Induced Breaking at an Idealized Inlet

J. McKee Smith

D. Resio

C. Vincent

Seasonal Closure of Tidal Inlets

R. Ranasinghe

C. Pattiaratchi

Groupiness and Long Waves

Wave Groups from Deep to Shallow Water

C. Bird

D.H. Peregrine

Cross-Shore Variability of Infragravity Wave Pressure and Velocities on a Barred Beach

T. Lippmann

T. Herbers

E. Thornton

Analysis of Infragravity Wave-Driven Sediment Transport on Macrotidal Beaches

A. Saulter

T. O'Hare

P. Russell

Ripple Charactistics and Bed Roughness Under Tidal Flow

R. Whitehouse

H. Mitchener

R. Soulsby

Large-Eddy Computation of Horizontal Fluidized Bed by a New Multiphase LES

Y. Nihei

K. Nadaoka

H. Yagi

Subject Index

Author Index