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Tables of Contents for Journey to Portugal
Chapter/Section Title
Page #
Page Count
List of Illustrations
vii
Author's Preface to the English Edition
ix
I FROM NORTHEAST TO NORTHWEST: THE DOURO AND THE DUERO
The Sermon of the Fishes
3
12
The Wicked Ways of Dossel
15
9
The Fiery Waters of the River de Onor
24
4
The Story of the Soldier Jose Jorge
28
5
The Devil's Temptations
33
8
The Stately Home
41
6
The Tame Wolf's Cave
47
6
Passionate Animals
53
7
Where Camilo is Not
60
7
Sleeping Beauty's Castle
67
8
Of Headaches and Other Miracles
75
7
An Even Bigger House
82
9
The Girls of Castro Laboreiro
91
9
St George Sets Forth on Horseback
100
6
Food for the Body
106
10
Mount Everest of Lanhoso
116
7
``Beside the River They Call the Douro''
123
9
II LOWLANDS BESIDE THE OCEAN
Endless Waters
132
10
At Home with the Marquess of Marialva
142
8
Not Every Ruin is a Roman Ruin
150
9
Coimbra Climbs, Coimbra Falls
159
8
A Castle Fit for Hamlet
167
7
At the Mountains' Gateway
174
7
III SOFT-STONE BEIRAS, BE PATIENT
The Man Who Could not Forget
181
5
Bread, Cheese and Wine in Cidadelhe
186
8
How Malva Got its Name
194
8
A Grain of Corn Away from Being Lisbon
202
7
New Temptations of the Devil
209
8
King of Cards
217
9
Highs and Lows
226
2
The Town of Stone
228
10
The Ghost of Jose Junior
238
8
``Hic Est Chorus''
246
11
IV FROM MONDEGO TO SADO, STOPPING ALL THE WHILE
One Islands, Two Islands
257
6
Arts of Water and Fire
263
9
Friars, Warriors and Fishermen
272
10
The Oldest House
282
6
So Near and Yet so Far
288
7
Captain Bonina
295
9
The Name in the Map
304
7
There Was Once a Slave
311
7
Paradise Encountered
318
7
At the Gates of Lisbon
325
3
They Say it's a Good Thing
328
21
Chimneys and Orange Groves
349
8
V THE VAST AND BURNING LANDS OF ALENTEJO
Where the Eagles Rest
357
8
A Rose Flower
365
6
One Ancient Stone, One Man
371
9
The Destruction of Nests is Prohibited
380
11
The Night the World Began
391
13
Looking and Leaping
404
11
The Italians in Mertola
415
8
VI OF THE ALGARVE, SUN, DRY BREAD AND SOFT BREAD
The Director and his Museum
423
9
Portuguese as She is Not Spoken
432
11
The Traveller Sets Out Again
443
1
Index
444
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